Dandruff flies

On 11/23/2010 10:16 PM, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:
On Nov 23, 8:47 pm, wrote:
On Nov 23, 8:46 pm, Frank Reid © wrote:

Best books for dandruff flies? As I mentioned, I'm using Ed Engle's
book "Tying Small Flies." Any others you like?
Frank Reid

Tiemco #2488

Books...

aging can be a humorous processg

Tom

On Nov 24, 8:43*am, Tom Littleton wrote:
On 11/23/2010 10:16 PM, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:

On Nov 23, 8:47 pm, *wrote:
On Nov 23, 8:46 pm, Frank Reid © *wrote:

Best books for dandruff flies? *As I mentioned, I'm using Ed Engle's
book "Tying Small Flies." *Any others you like?
Frank Reid

Tiemco #2488

Books...

aging can be a humorous processg

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Tom

Tell me about it! I can tie and fish #30 flies, but I can't read a
computer screen. Selective vision, I guess....kind of like the
selective hearing I have developed when my wife is talking to me ;-)

And my bride has every single color but no longer does embroidery.
Hmmm....


Might be worth the risk

I've poo-pooed the book a couple times here, but it actually gave me
some good Ideas and his approach to collecting and matching midges is
impressive

I make a couple floating nymphs using partridge (or similar) for
tails and legs ( beard style) two shades of DMC for a segmented body,
a loop tied CDC wing case/ wing, and two shades of zelon dubbing mixed
for thorax Absolutely nothing new here in concept but the abdomens
look very nice with the slightly different color segments, and they
fish well Often, on the hard fished waters I seem to frequent, the
trick is to produce something that looks like the bug but different
from the other patterns that look like the same bug ...


I also use the stuff for midge pupa and other totally subsurface
nymphs

Um, speaking of totally subsurface...or not. THE single thing I'd
most like to master is the ability to fish small to tiny half-in the
film ... or better yet, just under it ala a real midge hanging down
trying to work through that barrier ( or one of my crawling baetis
spinners stuck there ?) .... none of the techniques and/or ties I've
tried really does the job .. consistently It's pretty simple to get
half-in half-out "float" at size #14 ... even 16, but with tiny ties,
no. Anyone got ideas, I got ears.

On Nov 24, 1:07*pm, Larry L wrote:
And my bride has every single color but no longer does embroidery.
Hmmm....

Might be worth the risk

I've poo-pooed the book a couple times here, but it actually gave me
some good Ideas and his approach to collecting and matching midges is
impressive

I make a couple floating nymphs using partridge (or similar) *for
tails and legs ( beard style) two shades of DMC for a segmented body,
a loop tied CDC wing case/ wing, and two shades of zelon dubbing mixed
for thorax * * Absolutely nothing new here in concept but the abdomens
look very nice with the slightly different color segments, and they
fish well * * Often, on the hard fished waters I seem to frequent, the
trick is to produce something that looks like the bug but different
from the other patterns that look like the same bug ...

I also use the stuff for midge pupa and other totally subsurface
nymphs

Um, speaking of totally subsurface...or not. * THE single thing I'd
most like to master is the ability to fish small to tiny half-in the
film ... or better yet, just under it ala a real midge hanging down
trying to work through that barrier ( or one of my crawling baetis
spinners stuck there ?) .... none of the techniques and/or ties I've
tried really does the job .. consistently * *It's pretty simple to get
half-in half-out "float" at size #14 ... even 16, but with tiny ties,
no. * Anyone got ideas, I got ears.

Have you tried those flies with the extended parachute post?
Essentially, the post is about a half an inch long with the parachute
up top. This way, the fly hangs under the water. The end of the
tippet, as well as the fly (except for the parachute) would have to be
greased so it would sink, leaving the parachute above water. Could be
the answer.
Frank Reid

On 2010-11-24 14:07:37 -0500, Larry L said:



And my bride has every single color but no longer does embroidery.
Hmmm....


Might be worth the risk

I've poo-pooed the book a couple times here, but it actually gave me
some good Ideas and his approach to collecting and matching midges is
impressive

I make a couple floating nymphs using partridge (or similar) for
tails and legs ( beard style) two shades of DMC for a segmented body,
a loop tied CDC wing case/ wing, and two shades of zelon dubbing mixed
for thorax Absolutely nothing new here in concept but the abdomens
look very nice with the slightly different color segments, and they
fish well Often, on the hard fished waters I seem to frequent, the
trick is to produce something that looks like the bug but different
from the other patterns that look like the same bug ...


I also use the stuff for midge pupa and other totally subsurface
nymphs

Um, speaking of totally subsurface...or not. THE single thing I'd
most like to master is the ability to fish small to tiny half-in the
film ... or better yet, just under it ala a real midge hanging down
trying to work through that barrier ( or one of my crawling baetis
spinners stuck there ?) .... none of the techniques and/or ties I've
tried really does the job .. consistently It's pretty simple to get
half-in half-out "float" at size #14 ... even 16, but with tiny ties,
no. Anyone got ideas, I got ears.

Use fluorocaron tippet, about 1 foot. It doesn't float. Put the
tiniest of those stick-on strike indicators at the leader/tippet knot.
I have used this with #22 midges. I use the stick-on because I can not
always see the leader/tippet connection. You will most often see the
take with or without the SI. Experiment with Ginking the fluorocarbon
so that all but a few inches of it float.

Dave

On 2010-11-24 14:22:51 -0500, Frank Reid � 2010 said:

On Nov 24, 1:07Â*pm, Larry L wrote:
And my bride has every single color but no longer does embroidery.
Hmmm....

Might be worth the risk

I've poo-pooed the book a couple times here, but it actually gave me
some good Ideas and his approach to collecting and matching midges is
impressive

I make a couple floating nymphs using partridge (or similar) Â*for
tails and legs ( beard style) two shades of DMC for a segmented body,
a loop tied CDC wing case/ wing, and two shades of zelon dubbing mixed
for thorax Â* Â* Absolutely nothing new here in concept but the abdomen
s
look very nice with the slightly different color segments, and they
fish well Â* Â* Often, on the hard fished waters I seem to frequent, th
e
trick is to produce something that looks like the bug but different
from the other patterns that look like the same bug ...

I also use the stuff for midge pupa and other totally subsurface
nymphs

Um, speaking of totally subsurface...or not. Â* THE single thing I'd
most like to master is the ability to fish small to tiny half-in the
film ... or better yet, just under it ala a real midge hanging down
trying to work through that barrier ( or one of my crawling baetis
spinners stuck there ?) .... none of the techniques and/or ties I've
tried really does the job .. consistently Â* Â*It's pretty simple to ge
t
half-in half-out "float" at size #14 ... even 16, but with tiny ties,
no. Â* Anyone got ideas, I got ears.

Have you tried those flies with the extended parachute post?
Essentially, the post is about a half an inch long with the parachute
up top. This way, the fly hangs under the water. The end of the
tippet, as well as the fly (except for the parachute) would have to be
greased so it would sink, leaving the parachute above water. Could be
the answer.
Frank Reid

I've tried them, Frank. They're called parrasol nymphs. Didn't work
all that well, probably because they don't imitate the natural bug that
well with the post. I have seen them with fluorocarbon posts for the
parrasol, but haven't tied or tried them. Could work, I guess. I
simply tie the lure on about 12 inches of fluorocarbon tippet (it
sinks) and gink up to within a few inches of the lure, and use a very
tiny stick-on (dot) strike indicator at the leader/tippet knot. You
usually will see the take, but the SI helps me to better follow the
lure. Works on the Rapid. Trick is to keep the SI from falling off!
d;o(

Dave

..

Use fluorocaron tippet, about 1 foot.


I've tried "ginking" the tippet with some success.

Being a raging liberal loony, I balk at fluorocarbon or anything else
with that kind of half-life. But, that is the first time I've seen
it suggested when it made a little sense to me.

On Nov 24, 1:55*pm, D. LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-11-24 14:22:51 -0500, Frank Reid 2010 said:





On Nov 24, 1:07*pm, Larry L wrote:
And my bride has every single color but no longer does embroidery.
Hmmm....

Might be worth the risk

I've poo-pooed the book a couple times here, but it actually gave me
some good Ideas and his approach to collecting and matching midges is
impressive

I make a couple floating nymphs using partridge (or similar) *for
tails and legs ( beard style) two shades of DMC for a segmented body,
a loop tied CDC wing case/ wing, and two shades of zelon dubbing mixed
for thorax * * Absolutely nothing new here in concept but the abdomen
s
look very nice with the slightly different color segments, and they
fish well * * Often, on the hard fished waters I seem to frequent, th
e
trick is to produce something that looks like the bug but different
from the other patterns that look like the same bug ...

I also use the stuff for midge pupa and other totally subsurface
nymphs

Um, speaking of totally subsurface...or not. * THE single thing I'd
most like to master is the ability to fish small to tiny half-in the
film ... or better yet, just under it ala a real midge hanging down
trying to work through that barrier ( or one of my crawling baetis
spinners stuck there ?) .... none of the techniques and/or ties I've
tried really does the job .. consistently * *It's pretty simple to ge
t
half-in half-out "float" at size #14 ... even 16, but with tiny ties,
no. * Anyone got ideas, I got ears.

Have you tried those flies with the extended parachute post?
Essentially, the post is about a half an inch long with the parachute
up top. *This way, the fly hangs under the water. *The end of the
tippet, as well as the fly (except for the parachute) would have to be
greased so it would sink, leaving the parachute above water. *Could be
the answer.
Frank Reid

I've tried them, Frank. *They're called parrasol nymphs. *Didn't work
all that well, probably because they don't imitate the natural bug that
well with the post. *I have seen them with fluorocarbon posts for the
parrasol, but haven't tied or tried them. *Could work, I guess. *I
simply tie the lure on about 12 inches of fluorocarbon tippet (it
sinks) and gink up to within a few inches of the lure, and use a very
tiny stick-on (dot) strike indicator at the leader/tippet knot. *You
usually will see the take, but the SI helps me to better follow the
lure. *Works on the Rapid. *Trick is to keep the SI from falling off! *
d;o(

Dave- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, those stick on indicators are made here in Lincoln, NE. We got
tons of them.
One thing you can do is buy some double sided insulation tape, i.e.
tape you would use to seal up a window. A small roll for a couple of
bucks makes a years worth of strike indicators. We give a couple of
wraps around the line and there you go.
Frank Reid

Hmmmm. Just thought of another method that works very well.

Years ago I was turned-on by the Jailbird fly. Tied as a small (#20)
nymph with a green body and an orange thread ribbing, it has a small
piece of closed cell foam tied in at the thorax. Most of the fly is
underwater just hanging there. Trouble with this tie is that I have
never been able to cast it for a presentation. I've tried my method of
very tiny strike indicators to see where it is, but I've never caught a
fish with it via casting. I usually use it by letting it float
down-stream after some riffles. It can be a killer if fished this way.
Perhaps someone else can cast/see it. I can't. d;o(

Dave

On Nov 24, 2:07*pm, Larry L wrote:
And my bride has every single color but no longer does embroidery.
Hmmm....

Might be worth the risk

I've poo-pooed the book a couple times here, but it actually gave me
some good Ideas and his approach to collecting and matching midges is
impressive

I make a couple floating nymphs using partridge (or similar) *for
tails and legs ( beard style) two shades of DMC for a segmented body,
a loop tied CDC wing case/ wing, and two shades of zelon dubbing mixed
for thorax * * Absolutely nothing new here in concept but the abdomens
look very nice with the slightly different color segments, and they
fish well * * Often, on the hard fished waters I seem to frequent, the
trick is to produce something that looks like the bug but different
from the other patterns that look like the same bug ...

I also use the stuff for midge pupa and other totally subsurface
nymphs

Um, speaking of totally subsurface...or not. * THE single thing I'd
most like to master is the ability to fish small to tiny half-in the
film ... or better yet, just under it ala a real midge hanging down
trying to work through that barrier ( or one of my crawling baetis
spinners stuck there ?) .... none of the techniques and/or ties I've
tried really does the job .. consistently * *It's pretty simple to get
half-in half-out "float" at size #14 ... even 16, but with tiny ties,
no. * Anyone got ideas, I got ears.

Have you tried using a larger floating fly as an "indicator"? A
friend, who is a master flyfisherman, tyer, and rodbuilder, ofren uses
a hopper in tandem with a midge pupa with great success.