Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear Help.

Let me see if I can clarify things. First, I do not form the brush on
the fly. The brush is formed off the fly-separate from it, by making
a loop as Leisenring did when tying his wets and flymphs. Here is the
explanation of the method exactly as it was written in Leisenring's
book on tying wet flies.

" Take a piece of fly tying silk nine or 10 inches long, of the
desired color which you wish to show up in the body undercolor,and wax
it well (note this is pine resin based wax not the wax that comes in
the plastic tubes available today) Lay it lengthwise on your left leg
right in the middle on top, from your kneecap back, as in the
photograph (note from the knee towards your body) Now we have our
silk lying in a straight line and our dubbing spread out properly to
make a neat, tapered body. Now place the thumb of you left hand on the
bare silk about one inch from the end nearest your hip. Place the
second finger of your left hand on the bare silk beyond the dubbing
toward the knee.
With the thumb and first finger of your right hand grasp the silk
hanging over the knee; bring the silk up and pass it or pull it under
the second finger of your left hand, being careful not to release the
pressure off the silk being held down by thumb and finger of left hand.
Keep the thread and dubbing straight and tight.
Now that you have your silk pulled under the second finger, place
the first finger of your left hand on top of both threads and within
one-half inch of the dubbing. You know have the thumb, first finger and
second finger of your left hand on the silk. Remove the second finger,
keeping a good pressure on the ends of the thread beneath the dubbing
with your first finger and thumb.
Holding the end of the loose thread between the thumb and
forefinger of your right hand, bring this thread down directly on top
of the bottom thread so that the dubbing is between these two well
waxed threads. Before touching it to the dubbing, however, stretch it
tight and make sure the top thread is absolutely in line with the
bottom thread.
Now use the second finger of your right hand to press down the top
thread against the dubbing directly in front of your left thumb. Hold it
there, remove the left thumb, slide the finger (note: the second finger
of your right hand) toward the two loose ends of silk and replace your
left thumb.
At this point remove your right hand from the scene of operations and
observe the two silk threads with your dubbing between them, the first
finger of your left hand holding the threads down at the end nearest
your knee and your left thumb pressing down just behind the dubbing.
Take the doubled end of silk at your knee between the thumb and
first finger of your right hand and pull at it in order to get the loop
out straight. Let it go and lay flat down on your leg. Then take your
thumb (note: left hand thumb) and put it on top of the doubled silk at
right angles to it. Press down lightly and starting with the ball of
your thumb, pull your thumb across the silk, thus rolling the silk that
is under it. Give it two or three such rolls. holding it down each time,
until it is twisted tight.
After you give it the last roll, catch it up and give it another
roll or twist between the thumb and forefinger stretch it towards the
knee and lift the left fore finger straight up off the silk, keeping
the thumb down tightly on the opposite end. As you lift the left fore
finger the silk and dubbing will twist into a rope, so to speak.
Being careful to keep the thread twisted and taut, catch up the
threads under your left thumb and twist them in the opposite direction.
"

If you follow these directions, laying the hare's ear dubbing with
guard hairs across the thread, you will get a very buggy looking
result. The shorter and finer the hair, the less buggy it will look.
Also the result is very strong and durable. Leisenring made up the
bodies ahead of time, storing them on cards that had slits cut into
them opposite each other on either side. He stretched his "brushes"
across the card, catching the ends in the slits to keep them taut. As
needed, the brushes can be removed from the card and tied to the hook
for wrapping.

hope this helps,
Mark


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On Oct 29, 7:33 am, pmjasper wrote:
Hi guys.

As we know, here in NJ specifically, the Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear is an
absolute killer and might be the most widely used nymph pattern on the
trout streams. I attempted to tie a few #16's this weekend but they
came out looking horrible, not buggy at all. I attempted to pick out
some dubbing but they are so small it is difficult and will have to be
retied. Therefore, I was wondering if anyone had any links to tying the
GRHE that may help me.

I feel I have three main issues that I have to work on when tying this
patten:

First, the GRHE dubbing I have does not contain many guard hairs in it
and thus has kind of a uniform texture and color. I need to know how I
could add some hairs and dub them into the body (My dubbing technique
needs work).

Second, when dubbing the body of the fly, I wax the thread and twist
the dubbing clockwise in a fairly tight fashion, as if I don't wrap it
tight the body loses shape and wants to unravel. Also if I want to
increase the width of the fly I make two or three wraps over each
other. I'm wondering if it should be done that way or if I should just
add a great amount of dubbing to that section.

Finally, a proble that seems to affect all my flies is that i crowd the
eye of the hook making it difficult to knot in the end. It should be a
faily easy solution of just leaving a little more room near the eye of
the hook but sometimes that affects the taper of the nymph, thus I know
it's something I need to work on.

Again, if anyone has any links on tying the GRHE or tips, it would be
greatly appreciated. Thank you.
!-- / message --

--
pmjasper
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I tie my GRHE's in 12,14,16. if you want a larger body try an
underbody of chenille and dub over it. I would use a dubbing loop when
tying this nymph. Also wrap the gold wire counter clockwise as it
makes the fly more durable. Last do not crowd the eye, just stop a
bit behind and tie off make a good head.
This is one of the best flies in your box. You can use it any where
you want to fish. Hope this helps...
...Streamcaddis...

Thanks again guys. I have a lot to practice this weekend and am looking
forward to making some more scrappy looking GRHE nymphs. Thanks again.


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On 29 Oct, 12:33, pmjasper wrote:

Again, if anyone has any links on tying the GRHE or tips, it would be
greatly appreciated. Thank you.
!-- / message --



May be of help to you;

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-on...Hare/hare.html

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-on...ear_nymph.html

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-on...g/dubbing.html

TL
MC

pmjasper;97016 Wrote:
First, the GRHE dubbing I have does not contain many guard hairs in it
and thus has kind of a uniform texture and color. I need to know how I
could add some hairs and dub them into the body (My dubbing technique
needs work).

For dubbing I use the hair right off the hares mask. For me I prefer
the "bleached" natural. I first used a natural mask and I found it to
be a bit dark. So I tried the bleach and have not looked back. To
prepare it the dubbing, take a pair of sharp scissors and cut off most
of the hair on the mask as close to the skin as possible; one cut only!
That way, you get the spikey hair. Once all the hair is cut off the
face of the mask, you'll need to mix it up. When done throw it into a
ziplock and you're set for the season!

I use the hairs around the edges for tailing material.

pmjasper;97016 Wrote:

Second, when dubbing the body of the fly, I wax the thread and twist
the dubbing clockwise in a fairly tight fashion, as if I don't wrap it
tight the body loses shape and wants to unravel. Also if I want to
increase the width of the fly I make two or three wraps over each
other. I'm wondering if it should be done that way or if I should just
add a great amount of dubbing to that section.


Two things to note. First, try dubbing COUNTER clock wise around the
thred. It should grab the body better than clockwise. The other is
you're probably putting too much dubbing at a time. Remember you can
always add dubbing but taking it off is impossible.


pmjasper;97016 Wrote:
Finally, a proble that seems to affect all my flies is that i crowd the
eye of the hook making it difficult to knot in the end. It should be a
faily easy solution of just leaving a little more room near the eye of
the hook but sometimes that affects the taper of the nymph, thus I know
it's something I need to work on.

For nymphs a general rule to follow is 2/3's and 1/3. The abdomen is
2/3 the length of the finished fly and the thorax is the remaining 1/3.
I tie non-bead head nymphs on 2XL hooks; for beaded nymphs I tie on 3XL
hooks.


I'm tying at the Sommerset show on Saturday the 17th and will be at the
Catskill Fly Tiers Guild booth at noon. Drop by and I'll give you an in
person lesson and tips

Kurt


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pmjasper:

I didnt see you at the show, were you able to make it?

Have you had any luck with any of the suggestions from the responses
here?

Kurt


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Well I was not able to make it to the fly fishing symposium but I have
added guard hairs to the pre-packaged dubbing and my GRHE's are turning
out much better. That addition of a bead has also helped the crowding
of the hook and made it look a bit nicer. Thanks again to all for the
advice.


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pmjasper;99345 Wrote:
Well I was not able to make it to the fly fishing symposium but I have
added guard hairs to the pre-packaged dubbing and my GRHE's are turning
out much better. That addition of a bead has also helped the crowding
of the hook and made it look a bit nicer. Thanks again to all for the
advice.

Great! If you are planning on attending the Fly Fishing Show in Jan,
feel free to stop by the Catskill Fly Tiers Guild booth. I *think* I'm
tying on Friday AM....and I'll help you out.

Kurt


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try www.tie-one-on,com
"pmjasper" wrote in message
news

Hi guys.

As we know, here in NJ specifically, the Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear is an
absolute killer and might be the most widely used nymph pattern on the
trout streams. I attempted to tie a few #16's this weekend but they
came out looking horrible, not buggy at all. I attempted to pick out
some dubbing but they are so small it is difficult and will have to be
retied. Therefore, I was wondering if anyone had any links to tying the
GRHE that may help me.

I feel I have three main issues that I have to work on when tying this
patten:

First, the GRHE dubbing I have does not contain many guard hairs in it
and thus has kind of a uniform texture and color. I need to know how I
could add some hairs and dub them into the body (My dubbing technique
needs work).

Second, when dubbing the body of the fly, I wax the thread and twist
the dubbing clockwise in a fairly tight fashion, as if I don't wrap it
tight the body loses shape and wants to unravel. Also if I want to
increase the width of the fly I make two or three wraps over each
other. I'm wondering if it should be done that way or if I should just
add a great amount of dubbing to that section.

Finally, a proble that seems to affect all my flies is that i crowd the
eye of the hook making it difficult to knot in the end. It should be a
faily easy solution of just leaving a little more room near the eye of
the hook but sometimes that affects the taper of the nymph, thus I know
it's something I need to work on.

Again, if anyone has any links on tying the GRHE or tips, it would be
greatly appreciated. Thank you.
!-- / message --


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