Softex

Once upon a time I asked John K. Softex's owner, what to use to thin Softex.
He said nothing - just buy another jar LOL!

I used toluene and it worked just fine!
Good luck.
John

PS stir it in slowly - shaking introduces bubbles that do not all dissipate.

"Hooked" wrote in message
...
I am tying up some Mickey Finns using a braided mylar material that is
falling apart pretty easy. I've decided to coat the mylar in Softex to
keep
the fishes teeth from fraying it. The only problem I'm running into is
that
the Softex is not spreading around the hook very easy. The consistency is
not too thick (as compared to what it was like new) but it doesn't spread
too easy. Anybody have any ideas to make this a little easier?

SNIP
After checking out the page you posted the URL to, I think I'll try the
alcohol. I don't need any more chemicals laying around the house. At least
not something as bad as that stuff.

And thanks for all the follow up tips too.



The hazard sheets may appear similar, but I would rather smell or drink
alcohol than Toluene anyday!

The acrylic sealant ( caulking) is really very good, and you can use
ordinary lacquer thinners, or mineral spirits to thin it at will.

Nowadays tying benches are full of chemicals. Some of them quite dangerous.
It pays to be careful.

My pleasure, I hope the tips help you and others.

TL
MC

Charlie wrote:So the toluene is not much worse than the isopropyl-alcohol.
Hmmmm...

Sure, ask any glue sniffer - if you can find one that can still talk.
--
Charlie...


I love the smell of toluene in the morning.

Big Dale

On 23 Feb 2004 21:11:53 GMT, ospam (Big Dale) wrote:

Charlie wrote:So the toluene is not much worse than the isopropyl-alcohol.
Hmmmm...

Sure, ask any glue sniffer - if you can find one that can still talk.
--
Charlie...


I love the smell of toluene in the morning.

;-)

/daytripper (who prefers a kinder, gentler, herbal awakening...)

John was at our last conclave in Tahoe; he recommended that you buy two
jars, and leave the lid of one off for awhile to thicken. Then you could
use the thick stuff for bodies, etc and the thin for glueing. It's great
stuff for working with lines, such as making braided leader loops. At least
he was selling it at a wholesale price at the conclave


"John Lindsey" wrote in message
...
Once upon a time I asked John K. Softex's owner, what to use to thin
Softex.
He said nothing - just buy another jar LOL!

I used toluene and it worked just fine!
Good luck.
John

PS stir it in slowly - shaking introduces bubbles that do not all
dissipate.

"Hooked" wrote in message
...
I am tying up some Mickey Finns using a braided mylar material that is
falling apart pretty easy. I've decided to coat the mylar in Softex to
keep
the fishes teeth from fraying it. The only problem I'm running into is
that
the Softex is not spreading around the hook very easy. The consistency
is
not too thick (as compared to what it was like new) but it doesn't
spread
too easy. Anybody have any ideas to make this a little easier?






---
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Coat the out side threads of the bottle with vasoline this should help
"Hooked" wrote in message
...
"Willi" wrote in message
...


I gave bad informatiom - wrong product. The stuff I use is Clear Hard
Head by Loon. It is an alcohol based product. It dries hard like epoxy
but is much easier to work with.


I started tying a bass/pike sized (size 2) Mickey Finn this morning. I
coated that with Loons Hard Head. After heating the bottle cap to get it
off, and thinning it with alcohol anyway.

I wonder how Dave's Flexament might work?

FWIW I have been told the devcon brand 5 minute epoxy don't yellow like the
others just this week in a tying class
"Hooked" wrote in message
...
"Mike Connor" wrote in message
...

"Mike Connor" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...


Tie the bodies up first, dip them in thinned softex, ( you can thin it
down
with alcohol), let dry, and then complete the flies as normal.

Softex wont keep them from being frayed for long though. If you want
them
really robust, use epoxy. Get the bodies finished, paint a thin coat
of
the
epoxy on, when dry, complete as usual. This makes them almost
indestructible. If you are just applying a thin protective coat, then
you
won´t get much "running" or sagging. Just stick them in a piece of
foam
to
dry.

If you use minimum 20 minute epoxy, and warm both components up
before
mixing, ( wram water bath)then you can apply the resulting thin
mixture
just
like varnish. Try an experiment with a small amount of epoxy first.
Warming
the components accelerates the set-up time very considerably. If the
twenty
minute stuff is too fast, use 2 or 6 hour epoxy.

If the epoxy is too much mess on, then use "Hard as Nails" nail
lacquer
with the nylon additive. This will still give a lot more protection
than
Softex. If you are very careful, you can apply this to the finished
flies,
just paint it on. Although I would still advise doing the bodies
separately.

TL
MC

A couple of things I forgot;

Softex will dull down the mylar quite a bit, and may also dissolve it.

The epoxy will also dull down the mylar somewhat, and may also yellow in
time. This is not usually a major problem, and may even enhance the fly,
as
even a thin coat seems to add "depth" to the structure.

The "Hard as Nails" will also attack plastic, but as it is quickly
applied,
and also quick drying, it does not normally have such a bad effect. I
have
not had it turn yellow either.

TL
MC

What I am trying to do is protect the mylar and at the same time build up
the body some. I want to give it a clear overcoat that might help
deflect/refract the light a little. As far as the Softex not protecting
the
body, I think it will do ok. I just don't want them falling apart after
the
first fish. I'd use epoxy, but I think the Softex will give them a softer
feel. When I get around to doing up some pike size MFinns, I'll probably
use
the epoxy. Although using the craft fur for a wing may not stand up top a
pike.

I guess the use of alcohol for a thinner would be the answer to my
problems.
I just did up another one and applied it in a thicker coat without
thinning.
The last time the body material seemed to absorb the first coat. I'll see
how this one comes out and then try thinning the stuff a bit.

How much alcohol would you suggest to use? I have about 2/3 of a 100ml jar
left.

"Larry and a cat named Dub" hdyman58 wrote in message
m...
Coat the out side threads of the bottle with vasoline this should help


I did once. Just got all messed up again after use.

It's not too much of a problem getting out the old sauce pan and boiling
some water and dipping the jar/bottle in for a few seconds. Although, that
may shorten the life of the product if done too often.

Last time I used the Softex (a few days ago) I didn't coat the threads with
anything and the next day, they were fine. Couldn't say as much for the Loon
Hard Head though. And the Dave's Flexament, which I haven't used in a couple
of years, I'll probably never get the lid off. Which means the jar of Dave's
Flexament Thinner I bought will last a lot longer.

"Larry and a cat named Dub" hdyman58 wrote in message
m...
FWIW I have been told the devcon brand 5 minute epoxy don't yellow like
the
others just this week in a tying class

I've read that all epoxy will yellow after a given amount of time, but the
longer curing stuff will also take longer to yellow.