Softex

I am tying up some Mickey Finns using a braided mylar material that is
falling apart pretty easy. I've decided to coat the mylar in Softex to keep
the fishes teeth from fraying it. The only problem I'm running into is that
the Softex is not spreading around the hook very easy. The consistency is
not too thick (as compared to what it was like new) but it doesn't spread
too easy. Anybody have any ideas to make this a little easier?

Hooked wrote:

I am tying up some Mickey Finns using a braided mylar material that is
falling apart pretty easy. I've decided to coat the mylar in Softex to keep
the fishes teeth from fraying it. The only problem I'm running into is that
the Softex is not spreading around the hook very easy. The consistency is
not too thick (as compared to what it was like new) but it doesn't spread
too easy. Anybody have any ideas to make this a little easier?


Thin it with alcohol - the kind you get at the drug store.

Willi

"Hooked" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
I am tying up some Mickey Finns using a braided mylar material that is
falling apart pretty easy. I've decided to coat the mylar in Softex to
keep
the fishes teeth from fraying it. The only problem I'm running into is
that
the Softex is not spreading around the hook very easy. The consistency is
not too thick (as compared to what it was like new) but it doesn't spread
too easy. Anybody have any ideas to make this a little easier?



Tie the bodies up first, dip them in thinned softex, ( you can thin it down
with alcohol), let dry, and then complete the flies as normal.

Softex wont keep them from being frayed for long though. If you want them
really robust, use epoxy. Get the bodies finished, paint a thin coat of the
epoxy on, when dry, complete as usual. This makes them almost
indestructible. If you are just applying a thin protective coat, then you
won´t get much "running" or sagging. Just stick them in a piece of foam to
dry.

If you use minimum 20 minute epoxy, and warm both components up before
mixing, ( wram water bath)then you can apply the resulting thin mixture just
like varnish. Try an experiment with a small amount of epoxy first. Warming
the components accelerates the set-up time very considerably. If the twenty
minute stuff is too fast, use 2 or 6 hour epoxy.

If the epoxy is too much mess on, then use "Hard as Nails" nail lacquer
with the nylon additive. This will still give a lot more protection than
Softex. If you are very careful, you can apply this to the finished flies,
just paint it on. Although I would still advise doing the bodies separately.

TL
MC

"Mike Connor" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...

"Hooked" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
I am tying up some Mickey Finns using a braided mylar material that is
falling apart pretty easy. I've decided to coat the mylar in Softex to
keep
the fishes teeth from fraying it. The only problem I'm running into is
that
the Softex is not spreading around the hook very easy. The consistency
is
not too thick (as compared to what it was like new) but it doesn't
spread
too easy. Anybody have any ideas to make this a little easier?



Tie the bodies up first, dip them in thinned softex, ( you can thin it
down
with alcohol), let dry, and then complete the flies as normal.

Softex wont keep them from being frayed for long though. If you want them
really robust, use epoxy. Get the bodies finished, paint a thin coat of
the
epoxy on, when dry, complete as usual. This makes them almost
indestructible. If you are just applying a thin protective coat, then you
won´t get much "running" or sagging. Just stick them in a piece of foam to
dry.

If you use minimum 20 minute epoxy, and warm both components up before
mixing, ( wram water bath)then you can apply the resulting thin mixture
just
like varnish. Try an experiment with a small amount of epoxy first.
Warming
the components accelerates the set-up time very considerably. If the
twenty
minute stuff is too fast, use 2 or 6 hour epoxy.

If the epoxy is too much mess on, then use "Hard as Nails" nail lacquer
with the nylon additive. This will still give a lot more protection than
Softex. If you are very careful, you can apply this to the finished
flies,
just paint it on. Although I would still advise doing the bodies
separately.

TL
MC


A couple of things I forgot;

Softex will dull down the mylar quite a bit, and may also dissolve it.

The epoxy will also dull down the mylar somewhat, and may also yellow in
time. This is not usually a major problem, and may even enhance the fly, as
even a thin coat seems to add "depth" to the structure.

The "Hard as Nails" will also attack plastic, but as it is quickly applied,
and also quick drying, it does not normally have such a bad effect. I have
not had it turn yellow either.

TL
MC

Alcohol may thin softex, but the preferred thinner in toluene. Becasue of
liabilties, Icon Prod will not tell you this; they just say "read the
bottle", and it gives you a warning about the presence of toluene.


"Willi" wrote in message
...


Hooked wrote:

I am tying up some Mickey Finns using a braided mylar material that is
falling apart pretty easy. I've decided to coat the mylar in Softex to
keep
the fishes teeth from fraying it. The only problem I'm running into is
that
the Softex is not spreading around the hook very easy. The consistency
is
not too thick (as compared to what it was like new) but it doesn't
spread
too easy. Anybody have any ideas to make this a little easier?


Thin it with alcohol - the kind you get at the drug store.

Willi




---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.593 / Virus Database: 376 - Release Date: 2/20/2004

"Mike Connor" wrote in message
...

"Mike Connor" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...


Tie the bodies up first, dip them in thinned softex, ( you can thin it
down
with alcohol), let dry, and then complete the flies as normal.

Softex wont keep them from being frayed for long though. If you want
them
really robust, use epoxy. Get the bodies finished, paint a thin coat of
the
epoxy on, when dry, complete as usual. This makes them almost
indestructible. If you are just applying a thin protective coat, then
you
won´t get much "running" or sagging. Just stick them in a piece of foam
to
dry.

If you use minimum 20 minute epoxy, and warm both components up before
mixing, ( wram water bath)then you can apply the resulting thin mixture
just
like varnish. Try an experiment with a small amount of epoxy first.
Warming
the components accelerates the set-up time very considerably. If the
twenty
minute stuff is too fast, use 2 or 6 hour epoxy.

If the epoxy is too much mess on, then use "Hard as Nails" nail lacquer
with the nylon additive. This will still give a lot more protection than
Softex. If you are very careful, you can apply this to the finished
flies,
just paint it on. Although I would still advise doing the bodies
separately.

TL
MC

A couple of things I forgot;

Softex will dull down the mylar quite a bit, and may also dissolve it.

The epoxy will also dull down the mylar somewhat, and may also yellow in
time. This is not usually a major problem, and may even enhance the fly,
as
even a thin coat seems to add "depth" to the structure.

The "Hard as Nails" will also attack plastic, but as it is quickly
applied,
and also quick drying, it does not normally have such a bad effect. I have
not had it turn yellow either.

TL
MC

What I am trying to do is protect the mylar and at the same time build up
the body some. I want to give it a clear overcoat that might help
deflect/refract the light a little. As far as the Softex not protecting the
body, I think it will do ok. I just don't want them falling apart after the
first fish. I'd use epoxy, but I think the Softex will give them a softer
feel. When I get around to doing up some pike size MFinns, I'll probably use
the epoxy. Although using the craft fur for a wing may not stand up top a
pike.

I guess the use of alcohol for a thinner would be the answer to my problems.
I just did up another one and applied it in a thicker coat without thinning.
The last time the body material seemed to absorb the first coat. I'll see
how this one comes out and then try thinning the stuff a bit.

How much alcohol would you suggest to use? I have about 2/3 of a 100ml jar
left.

"Sierra fisher" wrote in message
...
Alcohol may thin softex, but the preferred thinner in toluene. Becasue
of
liabilties, Icon Prod will not tell you this; they just say "read the
bottle", and it gives you a warning about the presence of toluene.



You're right. It does. I guess I'll have to make a trip to the hardware
store tomorrow. If I can get my truck back from the fix it shop in time
first.

How much toluene does it take to thin a 2/3 jar of Softex?

"Hooked" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
SNIP
I guess the use of alcohol for a thinner would be the answer to my
problems.
I just did up another one and applied it in a thicker coat without
thinning.
The last time the body material seemed to absorb the first coat. I'll see
how this one comes out and then try thinning the stuff a bit.

How much alcohol would you suggest to use? I have about 2/3 of a 100ml jar
left.


I tied up quite a few baitfish imitations, and used Softex to coat the
bodies. I was mainly using pearl mylar on a shaped floss underbody. It did
not turn out quite as nicely as I had hoped, there was very little "flash"
left after coating. I still caught a few fish on them though. However,
after two fish at the most, the flies were pretty shredded. These were quite
toothy seafish however. ( Whiting).

You only need a little alcohol to change the consistency quite a lot. If
you want to be safe, tip some softex into another pot, and thin it in that.
At least that way you don´t ruin all of it if anything goes wrong.

If you do it in the original jar, just add a couple of drops at a time, and
stir well, until you are satisfied with the results.

TL
MC

"Hooked" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
"Sierra fisher" wrote in message
...
Alcohol may thin softex, but the preferred thinner in toluene. Becasue
of
liabilties, Icon Prod will not tell you this; they just say "read the
bottle", and it gives you a warning about the presence of toluene.



You're right. It does. I guess I'll have to make a trip to the hardware
store tomorrow. If I can get my truck back from the fix it shop in time
first.

How much toluene does it take to thin a 2/3 jar of Softex?



Toluene will thin Softex as well, ( probably better than alcohol, but
alcohol does work),but be very careful with it, it is dangerous stuff. See
here;
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/pr...0/icsc0078.htm

Do the same as for the alcohol, just mix a few drops at a time until you
achieve the desired consistency.

TL
MC

"Mike Connor" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
How much toluene does it take to thin a 2/3 jar of Softex?


You wont normally need more than 10ml. This will thin down even a new jar.
It takes longer to set of course, sags more easily, and gives off far more
fumes. Do the work in a well ventilated area.

Agreed, alcohol is not quite so good, but it will work, and is far less
dangerous.


One tip which might be useful to you, is how to make your own "softex".

Obtain a tube of "LEXEL" clear acrylic caulking, ( I have not used this
brand myself, I use a German brand, but a guy who I gave the tip to in the
USA mailed me to say that was what he used, after looking around for some,
and it worked perfectly) . Or any really good brand of clear acrylic
caulking. Make sure it is clear, and not white! ( The cheapest ones are not
quite so good). Thin it with 100% mineral spirits. To the desired
consistency.

One may also apparently use ordinary lacquer thinners, but I have not tried
this personally.

Do the mixing in a well ventilated room of course, well away from any
ignition sources.

This dries clear and flexible, and can be used for all sorts of things. One
can use it for layering clear bodies. Dipping the heads on polar fibre
minnows, shellbacks ,much like "Goop", for strengthening wings, etc etc etc.

You can also use the coloured acrylics, but of course the clear is most
useful. Some of the metallics look as though they might be very useful
indeed, and I am experimenting with a couple of these right now.This stuff
works out very cheaply indeed, whereas Softex is pretty expensive. I made
five 100 ml bottles of it, ( you need good quality tightly sealable bottles
by the way), for about four Euros, and still have most of the mineral
spirits left. The standard tubes usually contain 250ml of caulking. The
spirits can be obtained alsmost anywhere quite cheaply. The total cost was
roughly five dollars, ( reckoning one Euro is roughly one dollar) including
the bottles.

TL
MC