In article , W. D. Grey
wrote:
In article , Derek Moody
writes
Follow Mikes suggestions, but the line will work best if properly
balanced to your rod. Generally I would use a DT8 for a #7 Rod and
start by cutting the line to 12 yards. and see how this works. Having

Nowhere near enough - I use half a #12 with a #5 rod...


Yeah but you try to Calais from Dover chasing those Bass - cummon own up
:-)

Well, not actually that end of the channel but you -do- have a point...

I would consider you combination a bit top heavy. I once broke a
friends #7 rod casting a WF 9 line (double hauling). It came as a bit of
shock to both him and me :-)

What matters is the weight of line required to work the rod - if you follow
Mike Connor's method** you get the right weight of line for the rod and
won't strain it. The heavier the line you start with the shorter the
shooting head you make. If presentation is the most important criterion use
a long head made from a light line. If backcast/space is at a premium or
you are casting *big* flies use a short head made from a heavy line.

I use a shooting head made from a DT9 floating line on a #7 9'-6" rod to
good effect.

Whatever suits you and your waters.

Cheerio,

** Basically false cast with the end of a -whole- overweight line and
slowly extend until the action is *right* - DO NOT try to cast the
whole line - and then cut the line at the rod tip to make a perfectly
matched head. Read all his thread from 2002 for the complete details.


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