To Swivel or Not

I recently started using spoons such as the ACME Kastmaster and other
various spoons. What have you all found best; putting a snap swivel in line
or tying the line directly to the lure ? I have noticed a small amount of
line twist without the swivel. Another thought was to install a split ring
and barrel swivel to my spoons to keep the hardware length to a minimum. How
have been your applications?

Thanks,
Rick

From: "Richard Eklund"

| I recently started using spoons such as the ACME Kastmaster and other
| various spoons. What have you all found best; putting a snap swivel in line
| or tying the line directly to the lure ? I have noticed a small amount of
| line twist without the swivel. Another thought was to install a split ring
| and barrel swivel to my spoons to keep the hardware length to a minimum. How
| have been your applications?
|
| Thanks,
| Rick
|

Krocodile and Gator spoons and Hopkins hammerd lures are my favourites but I also use
Kastmaster.

I don't ever suggest tieing line directly to a spoon. More often then not the eye may be
round but it has squared corners and can easily cut the line and reduce its strenth.

I use camouflaged leader material. Cut it to desired length. I tie a loop knoy on both
ends of the leader with one smaller than the other. The smaller loop goes through and
around a barrel swivel. The larger loop goes through and around a snap.

The snap connects to the eye of the of the spoon. I tie a palomar knot on the other end of
the barrel with the fishing line.

The camouflaged leader I use in the surf is 40lb test and varies in colour from red to clear
to green along it length. It's test strength can be scaled down for fresh water or used in
musky fishing. I don't like metal leader because it detracts from the lure's action and the
fish sees it. I think when you use a spoon you should use a leader because those predatory
fish that will take the lure tend to often have numerous and/or sharrp teeth. When I am
going for Blue Fish, I check the leader every one to two fish caught by running my fingers
along the length of the leader and if it is frayed and/or nicked I replace it. I always
carry spare barrel swivels, snaps and leader in my tackle back.

The above can be scaled down for any envronment. For example 20lb leader on a pole using 6
lb. test.

--
Dave
http://www.claymania.com/removal-trojan-adware.html
http://www.ik-cs.com/got-a-virus.htm

Richard Eklund wrote:
I recently started using spoons such as the ACME Kastmaster and other
various spoons. What have you all found best; putting a snap swivel in line
or tying the line directly to the lure ? I have noticed a small amount of
line twist without the swivel. Another thought was to install a split ring
and barrel swivel to my spoons to keep the hardware length to a minimum. How
have been your applications?

Thanks,
Rick


I can't speak for freshwater fishing, everything which follows applies
to my sal****er experience.

Big spoons - snap swivel. Needs to be strong enough to handle the fish,
though most of the time I purchased pre-made wire leaders with the snap
swivel already on it.

Small spoons - I would get many more hits without the swivel, better
action also. Never had a real problem with major line twist.

-ben

On thick, heavy spoons, the thickness loosens the knot; use a split
ring. Spoons don't generally twist lines unless trolled too fast.
Use a braided super-line. 25# spiderwire is so small that you can
hardly see it; neither can the fish. You have trouble cutting it with
fingernail clippers, the fish won't likely bite through it.

Pepperoni



"Richard Eklund" wrote in message
...
I recently started using spoons such as the ACME Kastmaster and
other
various spoons. What have you all found best; putting a snap swivel
in line
or tying the line directly to the lure ? I have noticed a small
amount of
line twist without the swivel. Another thought was to install a
split ring
and barrel swivel to my spoons to keep the hardware length to a
minimum. How
have been your applications?

Thanks,
Rick

"Pepperoni" wrote in message
...
On thick, heavy spoons, the thickness loosens the knot; use a split
ring. Spoons don't generally twist lines unless trolled too fast.
Use a braided super-line. 25# spiderwire is so small that you can
hardly see it; neither can the fish. You have trouble cutting it with
fingernail clippers, the fish won't likely bite through it.

Pepperoni



On herky jerky retrieve through or under schools of bait fish it will twist
line. I do like the idea of making the swivel a semi permanent part of the
spoon with a ring instead of a clip. Might be good for inline spinners that
don't self keel too. Rooster Tails come to mind.


--
Bob La Londe
http://www.YumaBassMan.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

On thick, heavy spoons, the thickness loosens the knot; use a
split
ring. Spoons don't generally twist lines unless trolled too fast.
Use a braided super-line. 25# spiderwire is so small that you can
hardly see it; neither can the fish. You have trouble cutting it
with
fingernail clippers, the fish won't likely bite through it.

Pepperoni



On herky jerky retrieve through or under schools of bait fish it
will twist
line. I do like the idea of making the swivel a semi permanent part
of the
spoon with a ring instead of a clip. Might be good for inline
spinners that
don't self keel too. Rooster Tails come to mind.


--
Bob La Londe
http://www.YumaBassMan.com



I rarely use spinners any more. Back in my youth, mono was changed
every week or so. Nowadays, you tie your best knot, and may use the
same rig for months. I still on occasion use 4# mono for fishing for
bull bluegills with crickets, or crappies with minnows, but for most
fishing I use 20# spiderwire. (any smaller, and I can't see the line)
I rarely have a break-off, and consistently land fish that would walk
off with 4# mono. I still like my 6' graphite ultralight rod, and it
handles the heavy line well. I can turn a 20#+ carp or 15# flathead
or channel cat that would have been hopeless with 4# mono.

If I use a spinner, it is a safety-pin type, or added to a jig;
neither adds line twist. I fish a lot with small live bait (leeches,
minnows, crickets) tube jugs, a few Rapalas and Hopkins spoons. When I
use a bobber, it is a natural quill; a swivel would sink it.

The super lines are simply too expensive to discard. When I trim
enough to affect my casting (spinning reel), I just lay the line out
on the lawn, add a bit of backing to bulk up the spool and swap ends
of the spiderwire. The beat up working end gets buried at the bottom
of the spool, and the fresh end gets a work out.

So. If we are voting, put me in the "I don't like swivels" list.


Pepperoni

From: "Pepperoni"


| I rarely use spinners any more. Back in my youth, mono was changed
| every week or so. Nowadays, you tie your best knot, and may use the
| same rig for months. I still on occasion use 4# mono for fishing for
| bull bluegills with crickets, or crappies with minnows, but for most
| fishing I use 20# spiderwire. (any smaller, and I can't see the line)
| I rarely have a break-off, and consistently land fish that would walk
| off with 4# mono. I still like my 6' graphite ultralight rod, and it
| handles the heavy line well. I can turn a 20#+ carp or 15# flathead
| or channel cat that would have been hopeless with 4# mono.
|
| If I use a spinner, it is a safety-pin type, or added to a jig;
| neither adds line twist. I fish a lot with small live bait (leeches,
| minnows, crickets) tube jugs, a few Rapalas and Hopkins spoons. When I
| use a bobber, it is a natural quill; a swivel would sink it.
|
| The super lines are simply too expensive to discard. When I trim
| enough to affect my casting (spinning reel), I just lay the line out
| on the lawn, add a bit of backing to bulk up the spool and swap ends
| of the spiderwire. The beat up working end gets buried at the bottom
| of the spool, and the fresh end gets a work out.
|
| So. If we are voting, put me in the "I don't like swivels" list.
|
| Pepperoni
|

Well the post is on spoons and you don't use bobbers with a spoon.

I do see twist and I do use a barrel swivel before the leader. It makes for a good terminal
connection and is far enough away from the lure to not be seen by the fish and does not
detract from the action.

--
Dave
http://www.claymania.com/removal-trojan-adware.html
http://www.ik-cs.com/got-a-virus.htm

I tie a swivel about one foot up the line. No snap or leader. I also use
this with plastic worms, as it keeps the line from twisting. Tom
"Richard Eklund" wrote in message
...
I recently started using spoons such as the ACME Kastmaster and other
various spoons. What have you all found best; putting a snap swivel in
line
or tying the line directly to the lure ? I have noticed a small amount of
line twist without the swivel. Another thought was to install a split ring
and barrel swivel to my spoons to keep the hardware length to a minimum.
How
have been your applications?

Thanks,
Rick

From: "Tom Jentlie"

| I tie a swivel about one foot up the line. No snap or leader. I also use
| this with plastic worms, as it keeps the line from twisting. Tom


Like I stated earlier in the thread, most lures might have round hole but squared off
corners. If the lure does not have a rounded edge then you deccrease the lines test
strength.

--
Dave
http://www.claymania.com/removal-trojan-adware.html
http://www.ik-cs.com/got-a-virus.htm